Fuel filter leaking at pipe after replacement **BEST SOLUTION**

[scanman1]

This tip applies to all Honda fuel filters that mount to the firewall with the 5/8 threaded flange pipe going back to fuel pump.

I have changed my fuel filter on my 2001 CRV for the second time and the first time it was still leaking and I over tightened it and managed to get it to stop leaking. I knew that I compressed the flange of the steel pipe and I was going to have issues this time and was right. The flange was over compressed flattened out and even tightening the bolt to the point that the 14mm pipe wrench slipped the bolt head with a cheater bar and it still leaked.

Every place online said the same thing, that I needed to replace the fuel line back to the fuel tank. I spoke with a friend that works on AC units and he told me about this amazing washer that he uses on mini split systems that have a bad flared pipe and leak freon.

The washer is a special brass crush washer that is bent at a 45 degree angle (same as flare contact angle) and all you do is place it on top of the flared pipe flange and carefully insert in filter and tighten the flare nut gently and it crushes the washer and fills in the imperfection of the pipe flange and no leaks. Do NOT over tighten. When snug, just another 1/4 turn will crush the washer and fill in the imperfection of the original flared pipe.

You do need to replace the washer every time you loosen it as it is a sacrificial washer for every use. They come 10 to a box, so that is not a problem. You can't find them at a parts or builders store. They are available at wholesale HVAC supply stores, Grainger and 2x the cost at Amazon from only 2 small sellers with long lead times.

Parker 5/16" Brass Flare Gasket (Part #: 2GF-5)
Parker Flare Gasket: For 5/16 in Tube OD, Flared, 1/32 in Overall Lg, 10 PK

Grainger Item: 5WRW2 (10 for $12)

 

[Drawings-Alive3226]

Thanks for sharing this! I'm curious does it work with other types of flared fittings too, like brake lines? Also, is there a specific size or part number you used from Grainger?

 

[CRVman88]

This tip applies to all Honda fuel filters that mount to the firewall with the 5/8 threaded flange pipe going back to fuel pump.

I have changed my fuel filter on my 2001 CRV for the second time and the first time it was still leaking and I over tightened it and managed to get it to stop leaking. I knew that I compressed the flange of the steel pipe and I was going to have issues this time and was right. The flange was over compressed flattened out and even tightening the bolt to the point that the 14mm pipe wrench slipped the bolt head with a cheater bar and it still leaked.

Every place online said the same thing, that I needed to replace the fuel line back to the fuel tank. I spoke with a friend that works on AC units and he told me about this amazing washer that he uses on mini split systems that have a bad flared pipe and leak freon.

The washer is a special brass crush washer that is bent at a 45 degree angle (same as flare contact angle) and all you do is place it on top of the flared pipe flange and carefully insert in filter and tighten the flare nut gently and it crushes the washer and fills in the imperfection of the pipe flange and no leaks. Do NOT over tighten. When snug, just another 1/4 turn will crush the washer and fill in the imperfection of the original flared pipe.

You do need to replace the washer every time you loosen it as it is a sacrificial washer for every use. They come 10 to a box, so that is not a problem. You can't find them at a parts or builders store. They are available at wholesale HVAC supply stores, Grainger and 2x the cost at Amazon from only 2 small sellers with long lead times.

Parker 5/16" Brass Flare Gasket (Part #: 2GF-5)
Parker Flare Gasket: For 5/16 in Tube OD, Flared, 1/32 in Overall Lg, 10 PK

Grainger Item: 5WRW2 (10 for $12)

I think this is a brilliant solution. I might add one piece of advice, which is, before you assume you've crushed the flare, make sure you're using the correct torque spec.
Overtightening is a common mistake that leads to this problem. If your filter is leaking right after a replacement, try a new copper crush washer first and make sure you're not over torquing the fitting. If it still leaks, then this repair method is your next step